Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Buon Giorno Princepessa!


Because I am the luckiest girl in all the world, a few weeks ago I flew to Rome to visit Allie, one of my besties from SMC.  I arrived Thursday night and after finding my way to the Hotel Tiziano where she lives (yeah, that's right, she lives in a hotel), I got the biggest hug of my life.  Once the air wasn't being squeezed out of my lungs and I could breathe again, I met all of the other SMC chicks taking up residence in the Tiziano.  We then went to one of the local bars and walked around a Christmas market in a nearby piazza before finally calling it a night.


Hadrian's Tomb














On Friday we started off our morning with breakfast at Pascucci's, the small cafe where all the girls get their breakfast and dinner, and then walked over to Vatican City for a tour of the Scavi.  We got to cross the Tiber River and see Castle Sant'Angelo or Hadrian's Tomb in the distance.  My favorite part of the walk was the old stone water fountain carved into one of the walls of a building.  The water was ice cold and very refreshing.  I made it my mission to drink from every one we passed.


Because Allie and the other SMC girls are friends with several of the seminarians and deacons, we got free tours of both the Scavi and St. Peter's Basilica.  When St. Peter died, he was buried with only a red rock marking his grave near a field where many Christians were martyred.  This area was a sort of necropolis for pagans with streets of mausoleums, but the graves were eventually taken over by Christians who needed to bury their dead.  Over time the mausoleums were covered by dirt and the basilica was built on the land above them many years later. When working on the foundation of the basilica in order to bury Pope Pius XI, workers discovered one of the mausoleums, and Pope Pius XII gave them permission to excavate the rest of the burial site.  However, because this discovery was made around WWII and the pope wanted to avoid Hitler's attention and interference, he required the excavators to only work at night.  Eventually a red wall with graffiti covering it was found.  Many symbols were used so as not to draw the attention of pagans, but one decoded message seemed to say "Peter is here."  Near this wall, archaeologists eventually discovered remains that are consistent with what was known of Peter at the time of his death and that were wrapped in special cloth.

Our tour of the basilica started outside in the square.  There are two arching walls on either side of the basilica and above are statues of various saints.  When one of these statues gets too worn down or broken it is replaced with an entirely new saint.  At one point in the piazza you can stand and look out at all the columns and it gives the optical illusion that there is only one set instead of two.  We caught sight of one of the Swiss guards on our way to the entrance and our guide, seminarian Doug, told us the story of the pope's protectors.  The Swiss Guards were mercenaries and mercenaries are notorious for being loyal only to money.  In 1527, Emperor Charles V marched on Rome to capture Pope Clement VII.  The pope had only Swiss Guards to defend him and instead of fleeing when they faced almost certain death, the guards fought to get the pope to safety in Hadrian's Tomb by way of a secret passage.  Only 42 of 189 guards survived.  To become a Swiss Guard today you must be Swiss, Catholic, male, single, at least 5 feet and 8.5 inches tall, and 19-30 years old.  I guess the benevolent dictator of Vatican City is not an equal opportunity employer haha!

When we finally walked into the church, I looked around and immediately started to tear up.  I'm not sure if this is because it was so beautiful or because my eyes were open so wide to take it all in that they started to water.  Either way, St. Peter's Basilica is magnificent!  Our tour guide was great in giving us information on every part of the church.  I don't have the space to put it all here but I'll mention a few of the things he taught us.

St. Peter's has the largest interior of any Christian church in the world.  The size is highlighted by markings along the floor that show the length of other large churches.  In other words, the builder is showing just how far short other churches fall.  I guess if you're building something that beautiful you're allowed some bragging rights haha!  There is one circle of red marble in the floor that was reserved for only emperors and popes, and they would usually only use during big events like a coronation.  It used to be located at the front of the basilica but it was moved to the back.  Of course, we all took turns stepping on it.

There are three sets of doors leading into the basilica.  The Door of Death is on the left and is used as an exit for funeral processions (Pope John Paul II was the first pope not to exit through these doors but the Filarete instead).  The Filarete Door is in the center and this is what we used to enter.  The Holy Door is on the right and is blocked up with concrete on the inside.  During a jubilee year, the concrete is broken and people are allowed to walk through the door.

Right next to the Holy Door stands Michaelangelo's Pieta.  When Michaelangelo finished sculpting it and put it on display, rumors circulated that it was the work of another famous artist.  This enraged Michaelangelo and he snuck in and carved his name across Mary's clothing.  He immediately regretted this and claimed that he had ruined the entire work.  Despite his requests, the pope wouldn't allow Michaelangelo to destroy it.  It is believed that this is why Michaelangelo never signed any more of his works.

I wish I could tell you everything I learned about the basilica, but you would have to see it for yourself to truly understand.  Pictures don't do it justice, but I've added some anyways!

My second day in Rome started out with blue skies which was a pleasant change from the slightly cloudy ones of the day before.  Grace (Allie's roommate), Allie, and I decided to take advantage of the good weather and climb all 320 steps up to the top of the cupola.  The view was spectacular!  We spent forever at the top just walking around and looking out at the city before we trudged back down the stairs.

Following our ascent of the cupola, we went to the Vatican museums to see the Sistine Chapel. The Vatican Museums seem to go on endlessly.  We wound through a countless number of rooms before we finally found the shortcut to the Sistine Chapel.  Then we walked through a great many more rooms before finally arriving there.  I don't even want to think about how long it would have taken if we hadn't used the shortcut!  However, the long walk was more than worth it!  Not one of the pictures or poster I've seen of the Sistine Chapel has ever captured the beauty of it.  The entire ceiling and wall behind the altar are covered in Michaelangelo's fresco paintings.  There are even walls that have been painted to look like they are covered in rich curtains.  The three of us spent over half an hour just gazing at everything.  Because it is a holy place, there are several guards watching the crowd and every once in a while shushing them.  Once when the noise level started to climb, I decided to give it a try and give a loud "SSSSSSSHHHHHH!"  No one even glanced at me!  They all just quieted down haha!  After my small success as a guard we walked back to the hotel but stopped first at Figidarium, Allie's and Grace's favorite gelato place.  I tried a chocolate and tiramisu.  They were delicious!

On my last day in fabulous Roma, Allie and I went to mass in the Pantheon which is a beautiful old building that reminds me of a temple.  It has a huge dome with a circular skylight at the very top which they never close.  It happened to be raining that morning so they simply roped off the area where all the rain was falling.  The mass was entirely in Italian, so I think I got a little taste of how churchgoers felt back in the day of Latin masses.  After mass, we headed back to Pascucci's for lunch and then walked down the street to get my first ever cannolo!  Needless to say it was delicious!  Afterwards, we walked across the bridge and along the river.  The funny thing about Rome is that it has palm trees everywhere, but the trees along the river look like fall.  On our walk we stumbled upon an entire market devoted to chocolate!  The little stands were actually quite elaborate.  They had shoes and even tools made out of chocolate!

Walking back across the river we also passed the site of some temple ruins that are still in the process of being excavated.  Funny enough, the place has been nicknamed "Cat Heaven" because of the large number of cats that have taken up residence there.  They even have a sign with names and pictures of a few of the cats.  While we were there, we counted 9 cats in just a small section of the ruins.

There are three in this picture!




Our next stop was the Trevi Fountain.  The thing is absolutely ginormous (not to mention gorgeous)!  I was surprised by how small the piazza around it was, but the fountain takes up most of the space.  Allie and I of course stood with our backs to the fountain and threw in coins over our left shoulders while making a wish (we used pennies because, as Mom always says, "we're broke college students" haha!).  And I'd tell you my wish, but it might not come true!

From the Trevi Fountain, we made our way to the Spanish Steps.  They weren't at all what I expected.  For some reason I had a picture in my mind of a plain staircase going straight up a hill.  In reality, the Spanish Steps are much more elaborate.  We climbed up and walked along a short path to find a breathtaking view of the city.  Unfortunately, that was our last Roman adventure.  We headed back to the hotel to grab my things and get to the airport.  As I was waiting at the airport, two cats walked in as the younger one roamed about, the older one gave itself a bath and then hopped up on the seat next to me.  It was still there when I left too!

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